Brunch

Is that breakfast or lunch? What makes for a good brunch? I think it’s all in the diversity.

Dragging myself out of bed on any day, especially a non-working day is always going to be a battle so by the time I make brunch most of my dining pals are ready for round two (culinary speaking that’s lunch). So while I’m choosing baked ricotta and poached rhubarb compote they’re looking for a wagyu steak. And the real early birds might be hankering for apple and cinnamon muffins and a chai! So a great brunch menu needs to include something light, something substantial. something savoury and something sweet... preferably not always all in the one dish!

For breakfast. eggs and bacon will always fill the spot for me better than even the most outstanding congee (rice porridge), so cultural preferences and comfort foods is also a factor. However the mixture can be fun if done well like dishes such as Sri (Lankan that is) scrambled Eggs, Viet fried eggs and roti omelets at one of my favourites - Tom Phat.

The pic is the Feta, zucchini, corn fritters with avocado salsa, bloody Mary dressing , and a fried egg (a little of everything), on the menu at Churchill Cafe and Larder - 13 Hamilton St, Surrey Hills (experiencing some very mixed reviews since making changes to the business a few months ago).

Always a goodie - Tom Phat, 184 Sydney Rd Brunswick

A few of my favourite things....

...a last minute dash to indulge in the richness of winter cooking has bought together some of my joys. Chatting to Mr Malouf recently about his next book on the cuisine of Iran provoked a return to Turquoise. Sultan's delight (a robust Turkish lamb stew on creamy cheesy eggplant puree) seemed perfect for a chilly Sunday. Of course, getting up early enough to get the lamb from the local farmers’ market was always going to be a struggle - the price for my sleep in, the choice of cuts, so home I came with way too many kilos of beautiful lamb shoulder nicely rolled for a Sunday roast. Some for the Sultan and perhaps an Aussie roast to keep the child happy! Well the roast turned a tad Mediterranean, studded with garlic, rubbed with olive oil and slow cooked to melt in the mouth deliciousness and teamed with lemony potatoes (and steamed greens!)- the child was happy even though it wasn’t what she expected. But the Sultan's delight was magic, the combination of lamb, red onions, red pepper paste, oregano, garlic, honey, tomatoes and stock was just glorious, the left over sauce was rapturously mopped up with fresh bread the next day. And what great lamb; worth getting up for. An excellent marriage with the eggplant (yes, the same one I served with the koftas back in June). Yum.

Turquoise – A chef’s travels in Turkey by Greg and Lucy Malouf (Sultan’s delight recipe p.174)
Killara Rise Lamb http://www.killararise.com.au/

Foraging for falafel

So where does one get the best falafel in Melbourne?

Its seems that the answer to this question may well depend on what sort of falafels you are looking for, the Egyptian version made from fava beans or the Lebanese style using chickpeas or varieties which have an each way bet with half half fava & chickpeas. All seem to add chopped onion, garlic, spice (cumin and coriander) & finely chopped fresh herbs such as parsley & coriander. What ever your choice the aim seems to be to make sure they are crispy on the outside, soft on the inside and a little springy to the touch – although it appears bicarb soda helps this last quality and that can leave one with a little slightly unpleasant after taste. And as for how you have your falafel - neat - or wrapped in flat bread with greens, vegetables and sauce. And that too will require decision making, yoghurt or baba ganoush, fresh or maybe pickled cucumber. 

here's a taster of the little critters frying away

So where to go? I’m working on the list but number one at the moment is Half Moon Café in Coburg -13 Victoria Street. Half Moons falafel are the Egyptian fava bean variety and the variety of accompaniments are all those listed above together with more choices like spiced cauliflower or what about something a bit funky like rocket. $6.00 worth of deliciousness. You'll find some seriously good photo's of Nabil Hassans falafel @
http://theveryveryhungrycaterpillar.com/2010/04/03/halfmooncafe/

Momo

Sorry no pic's - too busy enjoying the evening; it was, after all, a celebration. It was the lack of the pictorial that had me procrastinating about publishing this post. But for the average punter a trip to a restaurant such as Momo isn't a weekly occurrence so I thought it worthwhile putting my penny's worth in the foodie blogosphere. Having enjoyed Greg Malouf's wonderful feasts at the original Momo incantation downstairs at 115 Collins Street, I was most curious to see what was on offer at the new (yes it's taken a while to get there!) location set in the Grand Hyatt. It is indeed a different experience, whilst still in the 'basement' this dining room is more reflective of the sophistication of its 5 star hotel environment rather than the exotic appeal of a Middle Eastern caravan as one headed downstairs to the old Momo. The food too has a more sophisticated focus with some marvellous dishes so I’m not sure if I'm attracted to gordy decor or maybe the original was more ‘authentic’ or I’m just hard to excite but I think the ‘old’ was more me than the ‘new’. But that’s not to say the experience was in any way disappointing it wasn’t.

The highlights:

• Veiled quail covered in leaves with chorizo-pine nut stuffing and mustard-whipped feta

• Button mushrooms with shankleesh, spring onions and house made porcini-flavoured prosciutto

• Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon and Momo's fabulous Sommelier who recommended it

• the lush ambiance of the dining room

• a chat with a past colleague, Greg (Malouf, that is!)

• and of course the wonderful company of my dining companion

Momo, Lower Plaza Level 123 Collins St, Melbourne

Simple and smart

Quality ingredients maketh the coffee, the focaccia and the cafe. The menu is neither funky nor overly creative - it is the quality of the components that make up the small 'bill of fare' here that are the star of this business and their sister ventures. If you are seated near the kitchen you will see the paper thin slicing of the Prosciutto di Parma or the grating of the Grana Pandano from its wedge as they are needed to grace a toasted focaccia or top a freshly tossed pasta. Traditional uncomplicated dishes such as Spaghetti Pomodoro are fabulous. Another winner on my list of preferences is the incy delectable sweets, no ugly great 'slabs' here, with flavour equally as important as sweetness.

The service is typical 'Italian', efficient and consistent although some describe this as brusque and even arrogant. With reasonable prices, it is not surprising that getting a table can be a challenge at anytime of the day but a much better bet than most Lygon Street eateries. And of course pizza or mozzarella around the corner at DOC is wonderful - haven't tried the Mornington establishment, but next time I'm visiting the peninsula's art galleries I shall.

Carlton Espresso 326 Lygon St, Carlton 

and DOC 295 Drummond Street, Carlton South
and DOC 22 Main St, Mornington

Roast duck and dumplings -Yum

Nutritionally not a fabulous combination I know.....too much protein and starch and distinctly lacking in vegetables. But for a birthday treat I like nothing more than gathering a few of my favourite foods and enjoying an unbalanced feast. (Look away students who are currently studying nutrition with me.)

The gathering is half the enjoyment, visiting my favourite food outlets, chatting with the 'chopper' of the duck, the dumpling maker or the grower at the farmers markets. There is always something new to learn or experience or just soak up the aroma's or espy what others are having - that last one usually gets me in trouble with dining mates who say making eye contact with me is a battle, when there is interesting food about! And today I learned that one of my favourite yum cha haunts has 143 different varieties on offer, that's quite a lot of dishy eye candy - so to speak!

But a birthday is also unlikely to pass without a 'big night out' and just to drag the celebrations out a bit longer that's happening next week  - Momo here I come, its been quite awhile since my last visit and much has changed! No doubt I'll have a few words to say.

Meatballs by any other name...would be Kofta

They're Lebanese so the meat is lamb, the flavouring allspice and the accompaniment bread! These ones where made lovingly with lamb, spice & pomegranate syrup but you can buy Kofta mix at Middle Eastern butchers - Lebanese rissoles! But the highlight of this dish was the eggplant hiding beneath these moorish meaty Kofta.

Whole eggplants are blackened over an open flame in the way Baba Ganoush is prepared. Once cooked and cooled the skin is carefully removed in chilled water and extra juice is squeezed out. Then finely chop the eggplant and warm it in a pan, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg add lemon juice to taste. To finish fold in some soft goats cheese - I used my favourite, Meredith marinated goats cheese. Absolutely delicious!

I know its winter but the contrast of crisp salad was perfect for this dish - cos, tomato, cucumber, freshly picked and chopped parsley & mint, dressing and some spicy little Lebanese pickled wild cucumbers just for fun!